Facial cleansing: all kinds of it, myths and facts

It is good for health to occasionally clean your aura, karma and thoughts; but for the beauty of the women living in the metropolis facial cleansing is prescribed. There is an enormous amount of methods of doing this magical ritual today. There is the time-tested mechanical, ultrasonic and even gas-liquid method. How to clean your face, tells the expert Passion.ru Catherine Medvedeva, dermato-cosmetologist, physician of the Gogiberidze Otari “Beauty time” clinic.

Why do I need to do face cleansing

Eels – or, as the beauticians call them, comedones – settle on the skin of more than 80% of the inhabitants of the metropolis. Guilty of this are the way of life of the citizens.

Our sebaceous glands continuously secrete a special oily substance designed to protect the skin from drying and the harmful effects of the environment. Appearing on the skin surface, it mixes with the dead skin flakes. In the normal cycle of cell renewal the face is cleansed by itself.

But under stress, hormonal disruptions, lack of sleep, irregular power supply and internal diseases the production of sebum increases, but the cell renewal cycle, on the contrary, slows down. As a result, the contamination from the skin is removed less often, the sebaceous glands become clogged, cease to function, increase in size, and appear on the surface in the form of the familiar black dots.

Since the comedones are deep inside, no creams, scrubs, or masks will help you get rid of them. Make life easier for your skin; only a beautician by a professional facial cleansing can give it smoothness and aesthetic appeal.

Many people under the influence of gossip and tips of their friends have formed a negative attitude to this process. Thoughts about the unpleasant consequences scare and force to pass by a cosmetologist’s office. Different unpleasant things were imputed to the cleaning procedure – rosacea, dermatitis, formation of the axis and what not.

In fact, all this is just speculation: cleansing process is not very nice, but still a needed ritual that brings its positive results, and when properly performed without causing skin damage. The mere fact that the cleaning is prescribed for adolescences (just at the time when sebaceous glands start actively working) talks about the security and complete sterility of the process.

It remains only to understand the cleansing options and choose the one that is right for you.

Ultrasonic cleansing

The preparation of a person for the procedure is performed prior to ultrasonic cleaning. Lotions or gels with fruit acids are applied to the skin, in order to loosen the skin and blackheads.
Facial cleansing: all kinds of it, myths and facts

The cleaning process is performed by a device with a spatula, through which ultrasound acoustic wave is applied to the skin. At this moment a vibration massage is performed on the cellular level.

Pros: This procedure helps to thoroughly clean the skin from dead skin cells, stimulates the blood flow, oxygen flow of the skin and cell metabolism, and improves the tone of the epidermis.

Cons: the acoustic wave of the power, which is supplied to the skin, is not enough to raise the comedones to the surface, they still remain inside. Ultrasonic cleaning is only allowed to make a soft peeling of the face.

Vacuum cleaning

This type of apparatus cleansing is performed using a special nozzle, which injects air under negative pressure.
Pros: vacuum cleaning improves blood circulation, helps to quickly dissolve stagnant elements (capillary nets, post-acne marks), it stimulates cell metabolism.

Cons: The cleaning is quite superficial, and sometimes even dead skin cells are not completely remove; it can also leave traces on the surface of the epidermis.

It is good for health to occasionally clean your aura, karma and thoughts; but for the beauty of the women living in the metropolis facial cleansing is prescribed. There is an enormous amount of methods of doing this magical ritual today. There is the time-tested mechanical, ultrasonic and even gas-liquid method. How to clean your face, tells the expert Passion.ru Catherine Medvedeva, dermato-cosmetologist, physician of the Gogiberidze Otari “Beauty time” clinic.

The gas-liquid peeling

The innovative invention of Israeli academics is a gas-liquid peeling, which promises not only to fully clean the face of acne, but also rejuvenate the skin, even out the skin relief. The procedure is based on the non-contact processing of the skin with water solution of medicine and medical gases (oxygen and CO2), which are applied to the surface of the epidermis under the pressure of 8 atmospheres through a special nozzle.

Pros: helps to wash away the skin’s surface dead cells, grinding scars, post-acne scarring. This procedure can be compared with the lymphatic drainage massage, which stimulates cell metabolism. It helps give skin elasticity. Feels like this procedure is similar to cryo-massage.

Cons: there are unpleasant sensations during the procedure due to the strong flow of water and air. The nozzle pressure is not enough to remove comedones from the deep layers of the skin, so the machine is not capable of solving this problem.

Mechanical cleaning of the face

Whatever may be said, but this time-tested procedure, perhaps, is one of the few which can really get rid of acne.
Before mechanical cleaning ritual the beautician conducts a lot of preparatory procedures, in order to avoid the negative consequences of which we spoke at the beginning. Careful preparation can also protect the epidermis from severe inflammation and help regenerate the skin after an aggressive attack.

In the beginning the beautician does two peeling: enzymatic and chemical, which helps loosen the epidermis and remove dead skin cells.

Then a thermal mask with camphor and isopropyl spirit is applied on the skin. This means softens the comedones in the deep layers of the skin, has anti-inflammatory and antiseptic effects.

Next comes the sacred moment of cleansing: the cosmetologist directs the flow of light to the face, looks at the skin with a magnifying glass and squeezes the comedones out, wearing sterile gloves. If a comedone is mature and closed, the doctor removes takes it out with a disposable needle from a syringe.

The cosmetologist squeezes only those ones which can be removed mechanically. Due to the fact that some comedones may be still not mature at the time of cleaning, you have to pass not one but 3-4 treatments every two weeks.

After cleansing the cosmetologist wipes the face with a lotion, or may use gas-liquid peeling.

In order to close the pores and soothe the skin, a mask tightening the pores is applied for 15 minutes.

If you have health problems, hormonal disruptions, you will always need the cleansing procedure. As a rule, after the first procedures the frequency of visits is reduced to once a month.

Pros: The skin is well cleaned of comedones, gets rid of dead skin cells.

Cons: The procedure is sufficiently long and painful, after that the skin may be inflamed, which will last a few days. Also, the surface of the epidermis may peel off, but this trouble is easy to handle, if you use the means with fruit acids and a good moisturizer with enzymes.

It is good for health to occasionally clean your aura, karma and thoughts; but for the beauty of the women living in the metropolis facial cleansing is prescribed. There is an enormous amount of methods of doing this magical ritual today. There is the time-tested mechanical, ultrasonic and even gas-liquid method. How to clean your face, tells the expert Passion.ru Catherine Medvedeva, dermato-cosmetologist, physician of the Gogiberidze Otari “Beauty time” clinic.

Chemical peeling

When hearing this phrase, many of you will probably remember Samantha – the heroine of the series “Sex and the City”, who looked like a “bad fried steak” after the chemical peeling procedure. However, the result is not as sad as it is shown in the film. Chemical peeling is a good alternative to mechanical cleansing. It’s not as painful, but there are some nuances.

Chemical peeling is a controlled chemical burn of the skin, which is performed to align the top layer of the epidermis, relieve the dead cells and comedones. During the procedure, fruit, retinol or salicylic acid is used. They clean the surfactants stratum corneum (dead skin on the surface), align the epidermis thickness.

For the drugs to penetrate evenly, you need to use care cosmetics with fruit acids at home a month before the procedure.
These products must be applied in post-peeling period for the rehabilitation of the skin. Fruit acids moisturize and promote active skin regeneration.

Pros: This procedure helps not only get rid of comedones and even out skin relief, but makes scars less noticeable. Fruit acids have a rejuvenating effect on the skin, stimulate the production of the dermis collagen and elastin in the deep layers, which are responsible for the elasticity of our skin.

Cons: immediately after the procedure a layer of brown crust appears the patient’s skin, so for 3-4 days after chemical peeling you will have to take a sick leave. In the post-peeling period there is a high risk of hyperpigmentation, especially for the representatives of 3-4 phototypes. Therefore, before going out for a month it is necessary to use a cream with SPF of at least 30, as well as cosmetic means the enzymes that block the production of pigment – bleaching creams, serums, suspending the active production of melanin in the skin.

Cleansing at home

Facial cleansing at home is quite a dangerous thing, because you have a risk scarring damage, OSB, or rosacea. If the idea of squeezing out the comedone has accidentally occurred, follow the safety rules:

• Regularly use products with fruit acids. They contribute to the alignment of the surface of the epidermis, eliminates the dead skin flakes, have a softening effect on the skin and blackheads.
• Do not squeeze blackheads and pimples without passing the preparation procedures. The fact is that if you start to squeeze out blackheads with dirty hands to dry, steamed and softened the skin, you can bring an infection. In such a situation, even mature comedones, most likely, will not succumb to your efforts. According to the law of the genre, you will begin to exert strong pressure on it, at that moment the bulk of the sebaceous plugs will not “shoot” to the skin surface, but deep into the epidermis. Spreading and causing an infection, it will create additional inflammation, and at the place of the comedone, which you have tried to squeeze out, a scar will form, similar to smallpox.
• Go through training.
  Before the procedure steam the face (it is enough to take a shower), use gel for washing, to cleanse the skin from the surface dirt and makeup.
  Use a scrub with fruit acids or softening skin cleansing mask to remove dead skin particles in the deeper layers.
  Wipe the face with salicylic spirit – in this case, the use of this tool is acceptable. Salicylic acid has antiseptic and disinfectant effect, well softens the skin.
  Then put on the gloves, clean them with salicylic solution. The “execution” process begins. If you can not squeeze a comedone, do not try again. It means it is still not ripe enough and the festering head is not an indication of its readiness for coming out.

Your beauty-assistants

Facial cleansing: all kinds of it, myths and facts:

• The gel cleanser and lotion with fruit acids Power DUO A PEEL Pharmaskincare;
• Self-heating mask CETTUA person;
• The cell regenerating scrub Diamond Cellular Oriflame;
• Cleansing Mask NoutriFusion Herbalife;
• Mask Clarifying Clay Masque SkinCeuticals;
• A gentle facial scrub deep cleansing with extracts of pink grapefruit Freeman Feeling Beautiful;
• Scrub of double action Idealist Dual-Action Refinishing Treatment Estee Lauder.